KHARDUNG LA- A Timeless Souvenir

The exhilaration to overpower  Khardung La on Royal Enfield(RE) had been inculcated in our psyche since  one month and the day finally was the 6^th of August 2016. Such was the euphoria that it has become a red letter day for all of us. With all exhilaration and jubilation we started our day from 7 AM amidst a bright sunny Morning. The search for bike rental was the first thing on the cards which was supposed to be arranged in the previous day but our fatigue had roiled our plan. As the bike rentals had not opened by that time, we went to the German Bakery for breakfast. After waiting for one more hour we could arranged 4 bikes one 350CC RE one 500 CC RE and 2 avengers .As we were 7 in the group, one of our friend  could not come with us due to unavoidable situation.. I took the 500 CC RE and rode first time on a busy morning Leh road with all the bike safety gears intact. Rs 1100 per RE per day and Rs 1000 Per avenger was the deal and we immediately went to the nearest petrol pump to fill our tanks as well as to fill the two 5 Litres Jar  we carried with us as a reserve since no petrol pump was between Leh and the Hunder .

All Padded up with all the bike gears we started our journey by 9.30. We were now travelling in a queue on the dusty  Roads in the outskirts of Leh. Slowly we were scaling  up leaving behind the City and now riding on the LEH Khardung La Road. My pillion driver was my friend Ranjit and was excited and equally intimated sitting behind me as I was riding a bullet from the first time and that too on a 500 CC RE . After 30 Minutes the roads became calm as if we were the only people driving in the middle of nowhere on a balmy late morning.  Someone truly said about this place ‘The land is so barren and the passes too high’.Just Imagine you are in the middle of an Ocean.This time we are on vast stretch of land without any Habitation,Vegetation,no traffic almost nothing except the barren high mountains and a road.

 One side of the narrow serpentine road was always deep and a slight mistake can lead anyone to the unthinkable. The uninhabited  land, the clear blue sky along the hanging white clouds and the imposing black barren mountains making the vista hard to believe. We were delighted and could feel the goose bumps inside our thick jackets. The first 14km was a joyride until we reached SOUTH PULLU. 

We submitted  the required  documents in  the Police check post  and straighten our backs and stayed  for the formalities to be completes before we continued our journey. The road now has become more treacherous and narrow with loose stones lying throughout the road making it a riders sorrow. Moreover the Civil supplies truck along with the Army trucks coming from the opposite side made us to shift our gear toward south. At one place we were struck for 20 minutes as the road was too narrow and the heavy traffic because of  Army trucks coming from opposite side making it too difficult. We managed to inch slowly amidst the risk of the precarious road and continued our journey. We were now escalating to higher altitude and the roads becoming more dangerous and more steeper. It was all fear and excitement when we had to cross a large stream of water running all across the road. Any mistake could have landed us in the middle of nowhere. Our bikes were now moving slower on the extremely steep and battered road with numerous blind turns. There was a very thin membrane between life and death to end the chase to reach the Khardung La top. The RE’s were first to reach the Khardung La Top  followed by LIPU and were waiting for Chandra, After waiting for 20 minutes Malay and Lipu decided to go  back to search Chandra but to no avail. We were afraid he might have fallen anywhere on the way as 40 minutes had passed and we were yet to get any traces. Finally we talked with the Army there and told the story. To our surprise Chandra came from opposite side i.e he was first to Reach Khardung La top and went passed the top  to continue for onward journey .We did  not knew when he overtook us as he was behind our three vehicles. After getting a relief we took a few pictures there .It is to be mentioned that oxygen was too less there as it was at a height of 18500ft and it was not advisable to stay for longer hour. The chilly winds along with low oxygen level making us uncomfortable and we soon started descending to our destination “HUNDER” where we stayed overnight. If the road to reach Khardung  La top  from  Leh is worse ,it was terrible while descending towards Hunder. Damaged roads, Narrow and decapitated roads with fast stream of water flowing with a heavy current making it too difficult for us. After travelling for some 14 kilometres we stopped at NORTH PULLU Police Check Post to again submit the documents. The last 14 kilometer was too adventurous and treacherous  as we have to make our way through the road which literally was not there. The experience was unforgettable and timeless which will be remembered ever .it was almost 1 PM we left North pullu and were damn hungry. As we proceeded towards Hunder the road now was getting better and we could see patches of  vegetation on a barren land at the bottom of the raging mountains giving us a contrasting picture.From the middle of nowhere we were now travelling on the mountain terrain having some greenery and some habitation. 

The afternoon blazing sun hitting the lofty and towering mountains was like a recreation of any movie. We reached KHARDUNG Village by 3PM which was just 20 km from North Pullu .Took some rest on the makeshift bed  after having lunch in a Dhaba and proceeded towards our destination after exchanging bikes.

 I was now a pillion driver with Ranjit as my driver .70 Km we covered and 50 more to go The road from khardung to KHALSAR was one of the best picturesque road we have ever seen. The raging black high and mighty mountains with all its valour with the nerve of steel stood under the clear blue sky with the sun hitting with all its vigour making the vista  the imagination of a painter. The condition of road become better and we hastily drove our vehicle on the hilly terrain to  KHALSAR .After a few minutes we could see the direction .GO STRAIGHT FOR  PANAMIK,TAKE LEFT  FOR DISKIT.

The road now has become more sandy as one can see sand laden strong and fierce wind coming from the cold desert  on either side of the road. With much difficulty we made our way through  the difficult  windy condition riding beside the SHYOK river and reached DISKIT-The headquarter of Ladakh District. The road does not pass through the heart of the city but along the outskirts of the Diskit market overlooking the famous 106 ft huge statue of MAITRAYEE BUDDHHA from a distance. It was another 8 KM ride from Diskit to reach Hunder.

 We were getting enervated after driving all the day on the unimaginable decapitated and dangerous road we had ever seen.  Reached HUNDER after the sun has rested and we straight away proceeded for the HABIB GUEST HOUSE   situated beside the cold desert.

 We were welcomed by Mr Habib, a nice generous and reticent person in his 40s staying there with his family.  The rooms were large and warm and we were resting comfortably inside with the chorus being heard from a distant. it was in fact the Laddakhi folk dance programme which is played in the evening  every day for the tourists. Me and Ranjit went to see it and enjoyed lot there with dancing with the local ladies.

 While returning we could see the clear night sky with the stars gazing towards the tranquil land of Hunder. I had heard and seen a lot about the night photography at Hunder and took some few pictures. Hunder is a picturesque village in the lap of the humungous black mountains and cold deserts bordering Pakistan which was only 50 KM from there. The tranquil serene village has a large number of homestays and guest houses to cater every budget backpackers .By 9 our dinner was ready and were served in a Ladakhi  way. 

The carpet was nicely spread on the floor and the food was served on an elevated wooden table.  Relishing it to our neck we called it a day at Hunder.

The much awaited day to visit the adventurous highest motor able road in the world has finally been ticked on my Bucket List. The day has given more than we imagined. There was everything, Euphoria, scepticism, fear anger adventure to be name a few. It was the most indelible day which will be revered till our conscience is intact.